Azelaic Acid Explained: What It Is and How It Works

Conversations about skincare ingredients are everywhere right now, and one that keeps coming up is azelaic acid. If you’ve been wondering “What is azelaic acid?” or “what does azelaic acid do?”, you aren’t alone. Once primarily used in dermatological and prescription formats, azelaic acid has become a popular and multi-tasking ingredient in everyday skincare routines. This is for good reason: it targets multiple concerns at once and is gentle on the skin. 

In this guide, we’re breaking down what azelaic acid is, how it works, and why it should be part of your skincare routine.

What is Azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid often found in foods like wheat, rye, and barley. Found in its synthetic form in skincare, it has become popular for its ability to improve overall skin tone and clarity. Dermatological research (NIH, 2024) has found that azelaic acid has:

  • Anti-inflammatory properties (calming redness and irritation)
  • Antimicrobial effects (targeting bacteria causing acne)
  • Antioxidant activity (supporting healthy-looking skin)

Because of its multifaceted nature, azelaic acid is recommended for people tackling acne, rosacea, and uneven skin tone. 

What does Azelaic acid do?

Azelaic acid has been shown to treat multiple skincare concerns at once.

  • Redness and rosacea: azelaic acid calms inflammation, making it effective for rosacea- and redness-prone skin.
  • Clogged pores and acne: azelaic acid gently exfoliates the skin’s surface, targeting bacteria that clogs pores and causes acne.
  • Dark spots and hyperpigmentation: azelaic acid slows excess melanin production, which helps improve the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and post-acne discoloration.
  • Evening skin tone and texture: if used consistently, azelaic acid can help create smoother and more even-looking skin.

Why we use azelaic acid:

Here at Bolden, we’re big fans of Azelaic acid because it’s gentle and multifaceted. It's one of the ingredients in our Dark Spot Fix, which has been formulated to:

  • Fade dark spots
  • Even skin tone
  • Boost radiance 

The takeaway

The great thing about Azelaic acid is that, relative to other active ingredients, it’s pretty gentle! You can use it morning and night, and always make sure to use your sunscreen. Azelaic acid is incredibly versatile, so chances are it can target one if not multiple skincare concerns you have at a time, making it a great ingredient to incorporate into your routine, morning and night.

 

Author Bio:

Chabelis works at the intersection of beauty, wellness, community, and culture, creating work that reflects the moment and celebrates collective experience.

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